It's easy to understand Owen Walker's fascination with the agave plant, or the "tree of wonders," as it is also known. The owner of El Rey Mezcal Bar shares a reverence for the plant that produces tequila and mezcal with the people who have harvested it for centuries. Its uses go far beyond distillation, he explains. The agave plant, which can take up to three decades to reach maturity, was used by the Incas and Aztecs to make clothing, housing, and medicine. The process of making tequila and mezcal is equally ancient.
After harvesting, he explains, the transformation from plant to liquor can vary. The "hand of the maker" can show itself in the length of time the plant is roasted, how long it is allowed to ferment, or whether the Mezcal maker uses clay or copper pot stills to produce the drink. But, according to Owen, more important is the type of agave that is used. So, put it this way: dude knows his stuff.
In 2016, the connoisseur looked to Kensington Market to open one of the city's first mezcalerias, exciting cocktail afficianadoes with his El Rey Mezcal Bar. Alongside the fact that cultivated agave plants make for a standardized and consistent flavour that acts as a great base for cocktails, the colourful cantina sources hard-to-find, rare mezcals for their clientele. With 60-plus varieties and a staff that is passionate about explaining each particular distillation, Torontonians who want learn more about this growing food trend need only to stop by El Rey for a thorough but enjoyable education.
